So I'm going to the UK(!!!)...

[Lara]

I just received notice of financial disbursement so I guess it's official now. I'll be doing a 3 month internship at the University of Leeds. I haven't been overseas in over 20 years, so this is pretty huge. Any tips would be appreciated!

1) Anything lifestyle-wise that might take me by surprise? (Paging expat @Louis)

2) Anything I should make sure to pack?

3) Local vocabulary and prouounciation, eek. I've had exposure to British TV and radio over the years, but I'm worried about not understanding the accent and/or sounding ridiculous.

4) Cell service - any recommendations for affordable data? I'll bring an unlocked iPhone.

5) Food recommendations! Either Leeds specific or chains (I'm not too familiar with any besides Pret-A-Manger). I'm not adventurous or spice-tolerant in general, but I don't want to miss out on anything really good.

6) And the fun part...I'll be on a budget but I definitely want to make some side trips while there. Given relative proximity, I'm thinking Edinburgh and York. It'd be nice to see the Lake District and the Cotswolds if possible, just not sure where to start. Should I see Oxford, Cambridge or both? And looking at Ryanair prices from Leeds, Dublin is tempting for the Trinity University Library alone. London is a must, but any help in making it as affordable as possible would be appreciated. Train fares don't seem cheap unfortunately so I'll have to plan well.

7) Per Priceline, the most direct way to travel would be to connect through Amsterdam (bypassing London) but any alternate suggestions welcome. It'd suck to pass through there and not actually see the city, but not sure that can be helped without extra $$.

Thanks in advance, I can't quite believe this is actually really happening (as if the stress of the ladies tonight wasn't enough!)

 

[hanca]

What to pack - bring your umbrella. It’s raining a lot.

 

[Erin]

Congratulations!! I haven't been to Leeds, but it is where my dad was born, so I have always wanted to go.

I can't really help with too much but the side trips. I loved Edinburgh so I think that's a great side trip choice and while I haven't been to York, it is highly recommended and is high on my list for my next trip to England. If you haven't been to Bath, it's one of my favourite places anywhere - I basically felt like I just walked out of a Jane Austen novel. (And even if that isn't your thing, I don't know if I've met anyone who didn't like Bath.)

 

[Lara]

It is, so I'll have to add it to the list!

For the reference - I've only been to Paris on a high school exchange trip, so basically anyplace is new. I'll have to manage my energy and attention though since I want to do good work too.

 

[Deleted member 221]

What to pack - bring your umbrella. It’s raining a lot.

Despite the reputation of London, I almost never carry an umbrella. It rains frequently, but rarely very hard or for very long. I carried an umbrella more often in New York.

1) Anything lifestyle-wise that might take me by surprise? (Paging expat @Louis)

Only everything . The UK is a foreign country with a (mostly) common language to the US and Canada. Not that you have anything to worry about since you're coming for three months, but US to UK is the number one expat assignment that fails. Why? People go in expecting things to be the same, and they're completely different.

Two-and-a-quarter years later, I still find that I don't know how to do certain things, or where to buy certain things. My worst meltdown was over having to mail a letter the month I arrived. Last month, when I was moving, I was ready to sell my soul for a CVS where I could just buy everything I needed.

3) Local vocabulary and prouounciation, eek. I've had exposure to British TV and radio over the years, but I'm worried about not understanding the accent and/or sounding ridiculous.

The language bit is funny, but I find the differences to be exaggerated. As a native speaker, you'll have no trouble understanding the vast majority of the accents. I occasionally come across people from very north England, Scotland, and Northern Ireland whose accents are difficult. I have to concentrate very hard (sometimes as much as I do when listening to Italian), and on rare occasion I have to ask them to speak slowly, but I have not met a single English speaker in the UK whom I cannot understand. Sometimes I don't understand every word, but I always get the meaning. In terms of lingo, some expressions you may not understand and vice versa, but you'll either figure them out, or people will explain. You will sound different, but you won't sound ridiculous. Unless you try to imitate the accent or use the local lingo, in which case you will.

I have deliberately retained my American accent, vocabulary, and grammar because it's genuine; I only adjust when it creates legitimate confusion. E.g., I do say trousers instead of pants, but I do not and will never say "diary" in place of "calendar." (Please kill me if I ever use the verb "diarise," which is my new least favo(u)rite word in the English language.) I also use the American plurals (e.g., Brits would use the plural when talking about a company name) and retain American grammar -- e.g., I used the subjunctive in the first sentence of the last paragraph, whereas 98% of Brits would not. People who adjust their pronunciation to sound more British or who start throwing in gratuitous British vocabulary like "whilst" sound silly to me. (Caveat: if I am writing something formal for work, I will use British spelling and words, including whilst , but only in writing, never in speech. And I still refuse to use diary / diarise in any context.)

4) Cell service - any recommendations for affordable data? I'll bring an unlocked iPhone.

Much more affordable than in the States; not sure about Canada. For example, 20GB for £20 on a pre-paid SIM from various carriers. Walk into any store, and you'll be fine. You can get prepaid SIMs without an ID or a credit check.... speaking of which, don't even think of getting a credit card (I'm routinely denied!). If you are getting any kind of payment in British pounds, you will 99% likely need a British bank account. Get your university to help you with opening a UK bank account, which is the single most frustrating thing I've ever had to do in life.

6) London is a must, but any help in making it as affordable as possible would be appreciated. Train fares don't seem cheap unfortunately so I'll have to plan well.

Train fares in the UK depend on the operator, but in general are outrageously expensive. I can fly to most of Europe, including Cyprus (5 hours), less expensively than I can take the train to Wales or even Oxford.

I have a guest room if you do make it to London. Just let me know when as I'm getting booked up for summer already. Unlike anywhere else I've lived, people WILL come visit if you have a guest room in London . I feel like I run an airbnb.

 

[Twilight1]

If you go to York, grab a York Pass and tool around for a few days.

I did a combo day trip to the Moors and Castle Howard and so glad I did.

Lake District too

I loved walking the York wall and seeing the York Museum. Absolutely worth the walkabout...

Jorvik museum, York Minster is also super cool to see.

 

[Twilight1]

When I am in London again Louis we need to meet up!!! (Might not be for awhile... though)

Lara if you can, get to the Peak District, it is absolutely lovely there!!

 

[Peaches LaTour]

I don't have anything constructive to add but just wanted to wish you great fun on your English adventure (and that i am jealous).

I was in London many years ago and adored it but then I've always admired the Brits.

Hope you will post here occasionally & let us know how your adventure is going.

 

[overedge]

Lara, if you want to take trains, there are Britrail passes for non UK residents that might save you some money. PM me if you want details.

Congratulations - this sounds really exciting!

 

[Lara]

Lara, if you want to take trains, there are Britrail passes for non UK residents that might save you some money. PM me if you want details.

Congratulations - this sounds really exciting!

Thanks! Is it this site? https://www.britrail.net
The 15 day England flexipass is tempting! Just wish it was over 3 months instead of 2, included Scotland (I see there's an option that does but more $) and was at least $200 less expensive. If I wasn't so far north I could get a London Plus pass and still have lots of places to go, oh well.

 

[Vagabond]

6) And the fun part...I'll be on a budget but I definitely want to make some side trips while there. Given relative proximity, I'm thinking Edinburgh and York. It'd be nice to see the Lake District and the Cotswolds if possible, just not sure where to start. Should I see Oxford, Cambridge or both? And looking at Ryanair prices from Leeds, Dublin is tempting for the Trinity University Library alone. London is a must, but any help in making it as affordable as possible would be appreciated. Train fares don't seem cheap unfortunately so I'll have to plan well.

I strongly recommend that you get a good guidebook or guidebooks to help you plan out where to go. I like the Rough Guide, and the Time Out city-specific guides are good too.

From a tourist perspective here's Oxford vs. Cambridge in a nutshell:

Oxford's standout feature is Radcliffe Square. The ensemble of the Bodleian Library, Radcliffe Camera, Church of St. Mary the Virgin, and All Souls College has no counterpart in Cambridge or anywhere else. Oxford colleges tend to be "beautiful" rather than "pretty." Most of the colleges you would want to see are right in the center of town. They take no notice of the main river, the Isis (Thames), and only a few are set by the smaller river, the Cherwell. The city center has more shops and other business than you will find in the center of Cambridge. Blackwells Bookstore is the best bookstore in the U.K. and is worth visiting even if you don't buy anything. (Plus, they'll ship books for you.)

Cambridge's standout feature is a series of colleges set along the Granta, with bridges separating the main part of each college from the backs. Cambridge colleges tendy to be "pretty" rather than "beautiful." There's not all that much to the center of town besides the colleges, some university buildings, a handful of business that support them. And if you come by train, be prepared for a long walk into town.

If you're looking for cheap accommodation in London, you might try this site: https://www.universityrooms.com/. I have used it to find rooms near Waterloo and Paddington the past two years. Obviously, the selection is greater if you're visiting outside of term time.

This site: www.londontourist.org.uk, hasn't been updated recently but does have suggestions about cheap accommodation.

Feel free to send me a PM if you have any questions.

 

[Sylvia]

Happy for you, @Lara! BritRail had an amazing deal when I was there in March(?) many, many, many years ago -- to take the train anywhere for 5(?) pounds, and so my friend and I chose the furthest possible distance from where we were in Scotland to Penzance, Cornwall!

 

[antmanb]

6) And the fun part...I'll be on a budget but I definitely want to make some side trips while there. Given relative proximity, I'm thinking Edinburgh and York. It'd be nice to see the Lake District and the Cotswolds if possible, just not sure where to start. Should I see Oxford, Cambridge or both? And looking at Ryanair prices from Leeds, Dublin is tempting for the Trinity University Library alone. London is a must, but any help in making it as affordable as possible would be appreciated. Train fares don't seem cheap unfortunately so I'll have to plan well.

Train travel is expensive but if you use www.trainline.co.uk and look up fares in advance you can get cheap tickets that way. The cheapest tickets are only released 13 in advance so if you work out when that is - the cheapest tickets come up. If you look 14 weeks out the prices are still huge and only drop at the 13 week mark and once the cheapest tickets are sold they're gone. If I travel from Manchester to London and back I rarely pay more than £18 each way when I book in advance sometimes you get the cheapest £10 one way fare.

If you don't mind taking longer and being less comfortable travel by coach is fairly cheap - national express is the main company but there are others.

 

[Vagabond]

I meant to say this in my previous post. They do sell umbrellas (and raincoats) in England.

 

[el henry]

Just popping in to do a summary of the Oxford v. Cambridge.

Spousal unit is an Oxford M.A. and read Greats at Univ. (OK, that’s it for Brit speak and he’s American).

If you can only do one as a tourist, do Cambridge. It’s pretty, it’s rural, it’s what everyone thinks English universities look like.

Oxford has its charms, but it is a city and the colleges are spread out in the city. It’s not central casting college town like Cambridge is. Again, it has many charms, but if I were visiting as a tourist and time was a factor, I’d head for the river Cam. JMO.

Have a great time

 

[Lara]

Blackwells Bookstore is the best bookstore in the U.K. and is worth visiting even if you don't buy anything. (Plus, they'll ship books for you.)

Sold!
I see Leeds has a Waterstones, that should be fun to browse too.

And I just read @el henry's vote for Cambridge lol. I'll try to do both if I can!

 

[SandraMGfan]

Regarding trainfares, my trick is to buy 2 singles rather than a return/open return - it works quite often, but means you are tied to a return time rather than just getting on any trains.

 

[aftershocks]

Congratulations and lots of good luck! I hope you find the time to travel throughout Great Britain before your internship ends.

 

[Erin]

If you don't mind taking longer and being less comfortable travel by coach is fairly cheap - national express is the main company but there are others.

I forgot about this excellent point - I took a bus from Portsmouth to Salisbury to see Stonehenge and I think our tickets were less than half what a train would have been. And since we would have had to change trains, it didn't even end up being much slower. Nor did I find it less comfortable. So depending on where you are going and what the train schedule is, this can be a very appealing alternative.

 

[Japanfan]

Do most places in London/England have central heat now?

I was there in March of 1979 and it was so cold in the places we stayed due to the lack of central heat. In Wales as well. I have a picture of my friend and I at a youth hostel in Wales, with about 10 blankets piled on top of us.

 

[antmanb]

Do most places in London/England have central heat now?

I was there in March of 1979 and it was so cold in the places we stayed due to the lack of central heat. In Wales as well. I have a picture of my friend and I at a youth hostel in Wales, with about 10 blankets piled on top of us.

yes, the country has moved on a little bit in nearly 40 years

 

[Finnice]

I absolutely love both London and Cambridge. Bath isalso worth visiting for, especially if you are a Jane Austen fan.
And Oxford, if you like Dorothy L. Sayers.

 

[Twilight1]

Thanks! Is it this site? https://www.britrail.net
The 15 day England flexipass is tempting! Just wish it was over 3 months instead of 2, included Scotland (I see there's an option that does but more $) and was at least $200 less expensive. If I wasn't so far north I could get a London Plus pass and still have lots of places to go, oh well.

I did the Britrail pass and found it very convenient but it is super pricey.

I took the bus or train most places I went back in April/17.

When I stayed in Sheffield, I went to both Haddon Hall and Chatsworth which were both very conveniently nearby (30 min).

If you can, stop in Bakewell. I had great conversations with locals on the difference between the Bakewell tart vs pudding. Either way, buy one or 12. They are delish.

Seeing the rock fences in Derbyshire and sheep grazing and the rolling hill, the entire area is so amazing.

What is quite cool about York is that you can see a lot of things in a short period of time there and everything is pretty close together. The Shambles has a great little pub wirh great fish and chips. The name is escaping me right now though.

 

[hanca]

Do most places in London/England have central heat now?

I was there in March of 1979 and it was so cold in the places we stayed due to the lack of central heat. In Wales as well. I have a picture of my friend and I at a youth hostel in Wales, with about 10 blankets piled on top of us.

depends with whom you are staying. They will have central heating, but whether they are willing to switch it on because of you, that’s a different matter!

 

[acraven]

Find a really comprehensive guide book and take it with you. Because of budget constraints, many local tourist offices have closed. It is not uncommon to arrive in even a touristy town and find that the "tourist office" is a rack of brochures somewhere with absolutely no staffing. Sometimes there's a small vending box with local maps in or near the train station, but it's best not to have to rely on that. As of last September, those boxes were only taking the old-style £1 coins, which were being phased out (see below).

Heed the tip about advance-purchase of train tickets. The difference between the just-on-sale price and the day-of-travel price for many trips in Great Britain is by far the widest I've encountered in Europe. There may be some routes that are not as variable, and for shorter distances the bus is a good option, but for the longer trips you will need to plan ahead or you'll pay a heavy penalty.

One tip I picked up from a travel forum is that when you need to change trains to reach your destination, it is occasionally much cheaper to split the ticket at the layover point. I don't understand why, but it is true; I imagine it occurs when you are using two different rail companies, but there may be more to it than that. So if you can't find a direct routing to get you to your destination, always check the price of separate tickets; you may save money.

I enjoyed Oxford a lot. Both the Ashmolean (art) and Pitt-Rivers (ethnographic) museums are really good. And Oxford is a short train ride from Moreton-in-Marsh, the only Cotswolds village with a rail station. There is some bus service from Moreton to some of the other Cotswold villages. But it's difficult to see the Cotswolds, especially over a weekend, without a car. I opted to take a van tour. Some of those depart from Moreton; others, from Bath. I think the going rate is about £100. It's a lot for just one day, but I felt it was worth it. I was very happy with the villages I saw from Moreton; the Bath tours go to a different part of the Cotswolds, I think.

I did not find Bath very visually appealing; if you've seen one of those Georgian row houses, why do you need 100 more? Lots of people disagree with me, of course. But I loved the Museum of East Asian Art in Bath. I have read that hotels in Bath are expensive but have had no occasion to test that out.

I gather that Liverpool is worth a visit but have not been there. Chester is attractive (and touristy). It can be used as a base for seeing northern Wales, but I probably wouldn't try to go as far as northern Wales if I had just a two-day weekend.

I found the WWII code-breaking center at Bletchley Park very interesting.

The usual recommendation for dealing with a variety of weather conditions is layers. I only travel to Europe between May and October, and I use a light fleece and a hooded, waterproof jacket, plus long johns on the coldest days. I have a hat I can wear under the hood to keep rain off my face. Yes, it looks just as you are imagining!

The UK is in the process of switching to more counterfeit-resistant currency. Google for information or ask colleagues after your arrival so you don't end up holding notes that can only be exchanged at the Bank of England. In addition, the old one-pound coins may already have been withdrawn; I'm not sure about that.

 

[Vagabond]

@Lara The village of Woodstock, site of Blenheim Palace, is on the eastern edge of the Cotswolds and about eight miles outside of Oxford. It can be reached by coach from central Oxford in about half an hour. If you're spending at least two nights in Oxford, spending part of a day in Woodstock could be something to consider.

 

[Lara]

Plane tickets purchased yesterday, it's gotten real!

I ended up getting advanced tickets to London over Easter weekend + a flexible Britrail pass for 3 days within April 14-May 13 that I can use for day trips to Edinburgh and Cambridge. I checked and Oxford's over 3 hours by train, not impossible but more than I'd want for a day trip (unless I can find a seriously cheap place to stay overnight which I'm not expecting). Bath is even farther so likely a no-go, hopefully I'll have more chances in the future.

Besides York both Manchester and Sheffield are very close by bus, so let me know if there are good sights to see there!

 

[GarrAargHrumph]

Get a student guide book, like the Rough Guide or Lonely Planet. They explain how to travel, stay and see things inexpensively. Really very useful. I find them better than the normal guide books, because they really do explain how to do stuff on the cheap.

 

[Vagabond]

Besides York both Manchester and Sheffield are very close by bus, so let me know if there are good sights to see there!

For a city as large as it is, Manchester has a remarkably compact commercial district. If you go, you should make a point to visit these places:

Museum of Science and Industry.
The John Rylands Library
The Manchester Cathedral

Also make sure to take a look at Manchester Town Hall, the River Irwell, and Canal Street.

 

[Twilight1]

Sheffield you can get to Bakewell and Chatsworth Hall. I stayed at the Best Western Sheffield- Kenwood Hall and it was a lovely spot. Nice grounds and great breakfast to start the day.

It was easy walking distance to catch the bus to Chatsworth and Haddon Hall. £6- £8 and the same bus goes to both.

I would do Haddon Hall first for the true tudor manor home feel and then go to Chatsworth. The variance in time is wild to take in. Time travel to the max.

You can easily do both in one day if wanted a little rushed but doable.

I keep talking about the Bakewell tart... I have such a sweet tooth that if you get a layover stop in the village grab one at the Bakewell Tart Shop on Matlock St.

Also worth noting that when I hopped on the bus from Sheffield, my aunt and I went straighaway to Haddon Hall and then just walked back to Bakewell which is about a 15 min scenic walk along Haddon Rd. (The River Wye is on route)