Camera discussion

[Vash01]

For the camera experts on fsu (there seem to be quite a few):

I had a Minolta camera in the days of 'film'. I had two very good telephoto lenses on it. I still have the camera and the lenses. I am not sure what I can do with the camera and the lenses. Any advice?

 

[Reuven]

You can still get film for them.

 

[orbitz]

1. There are online sites that buy old cameras and lenses. You can try to inquire to see if they're interested in your equipments.

2. See if your local high school is interested in them. Maybe there are still some photographic classes in high school that teach film development.

3. Donate them to goodwill and deduct them from your tax.

4. I've seen show on HGTV where the designer turned an old camera into a lamp. The lens can become coffee mug, flower vase, door stopper, rolling pin for making pie crust, etc.

5. As a last resort just dump them into the electronic recycling bins at Best Buy.

 

[Meredith]

Is there any possibility you may want to return to the darkroom? I found that I looked at the world in quite another way when I had my old Minolta, and I would love to have it back. It was stolen a number of years ago.

I have Canons now, including a DSLR with several lenses that transferred quite easily from my SLR. Seldom have I taken any photo that compares with what I developed myself. Wish I was a better photographer.

 

[Vash01]

Is there any possibility you may want to return to the darkroom? I found that I looked at the world in quite another way when I had my old Minolta, and I would love to have it back. It was stolen a number of years ago.

I have Canons now, including a DSLR with several lenses that transferred quite easily from my SLR. Seldom have I taken any photo that compares with what I developed myself. Wish I was a better photographer.

Very interesting. I never developed my own films. I do like getting the prints in my hand. I may buy a film and hopefully I can get the pics developed. It's good to know the old lenses may fit another camera mechanically.

 

[Reuven]

I did darkroom years ago. I still have the stuff up in the attic because we’ve never had a suitable place to set one up since I moved to Maine some 38 years ago. Frankly, I prefer the digital darkroom, much more flexible, immediate, and, because I shoot RAW, if I don’t like a result, I can go back to square one. Also, no hazardous chemicals (though I do love the smell of fixer that wafts through my local camera store when they’re processing).

 

[myhoneyhoney]

I loved dark room class even if all I developed was B&W film and prints. I remember wanting to save up for an enlarger but life happens.

I found my local park and rec district has a good sized dark room where stations can be rented hourly. You guys should research if there's something like that nearby.

 

[clairecloutier]

On the subject of photography ... I'm thinking about potentially buying a camera to take decent pictures at skating events. I am not skilled at all, so I would need something that's relatively easy to use yet still able to capture skaters in motion and under spotlights. Also it would need to be digital, and preferably not terribly expensive. Any suggestions, let me know!

 

[Vash01]

On the subject of photography ... I'm thinking about potentially buying a camera to take decent pictures at skating events. I am not skilled at all, so I would need something that's relatively easy to use yet still able to capture skaters in motion and under spotlights. Also it would need to be digital, and preferably not terribly expensive. Any suggestions, let me know!

I would like to know too. I never got good pictures at skating events.

 

[Jot the Dot Dot]

I would like to know too. I never got good pictures at skating events.

If you have problems with your subject being 'washed-out' (a common problem when you have automatic exposure; your subject is brightly lit against a dark background, ergo your camera has to compensate in order to get X amount of light into the shot), you might try http://www.picmonkey.com . You can darken your shot bit by bit, you can also crop it to eliminate extraneous background, and you can color-correct in case their flashy floodlights make certain pictures appear too red, too blue, whatever. Note: This only applies to digital shots, if you still rely on film cameras, it'll only work if you get the shots scanned onto your computer. Also, it goes without saying that flash pictures are prohibited at such events, so again you're limited by existing light pictures.

 

[myhoneyhoney]

You will need a fast camera and a fast lens. In an ugly yellow light and dim basketball court I'm barely able to get away with decent pics using a Canon t3i with a prime lens for more sharpness and decent speed. I also set the camera cranked up as high as possible to as much "grainyness" as I can tolerate. And this is with me sitting on the bottom front bleacher. If I'm able to stay behind the basket, the pics are awesome.

The closer you get and the more light the better. Still, the fastest body and glass you can get is your best bet.

 

[Vash01]

If you have problems with your subject being 'washed-out' (a common problem when you have automatic exposure; your subject is brightly lit against a dark background, ergo your camera has to compensate in order to get X amount of light into the shot), you might try http://www.picmonkey.com . You can darken your shot bit by bit, you can also crop it to eliminate extraneous background, and you can color-correct in case their flashy floodlights make certain pictures appear too red, too blue, whatever. Note: This only applies to digital shots, if you still rely on film cameras, it'll only work if you get the shots scanned onto your computer. Also, it goes without saying that flash pictures are prohibited at such events, so again you're limited by existing light pictures.

I often crop my pictures- at least 50% of the pics I take are cropped later and I also adjust the brightness, color and contrast as needed. For me the problem with digital pics for skating is that I don't have a good enough lens. After I get a DSLR, I will be able to do a lot of things, but I am really into nature photography and not so much into FS photos (though I would like them to be better than they have been). My film cameras used to give better pics than the digital ones, but that's only relatively speaking. I have not been to FS competitions or shows in a while (used to go twice a year), so right now it's not really a pressing issue for me. If I go to Boston next year for worlds, I should have the DSLR with two lenses with me.

 

[sk8pics]

I recall reading at a number of skating events fans were not allowed to bring in cameras with detachable lenses. I haven't been to a live event in awhile, sadly, so I don't know if that's still true. But anyway, if you do, you really do need a fast lens to go along with a fast camera. That means it has to focus fast and the lower the minimum aperture the better. I have a Nikor 80-200 mm/2.8 lens that worked very nicely.

 

[Jay42]

Something that may help when your using a compact camera or a lower end DSLR when you're shooting at a rink is setting your exposure value down to -.5 or -1 or changing your white balance. The cameras can sometimes "see" white objects improperly, especially with the white balance in auto, it will blow out the highlights to the point where the picture becomes almost unusable, even with editing. If you lower the EV it makes the picture darker in camera but it's a very easy fix in editing. A minor adjustment to brightness and/or levels and you're good to go.

 

[millyskate]

On the subject of photography ... I'm thinking about potentially buying a camera to take decent pictures at skating events. I am not skilled at all, so I would need something that's relatively easy to use yet still able to capture skaters in motion and under spotlights. Also it would need to be digital, and preferably not terribly expensive. Any suggestions, let me know!

Hi Claire,
Unfortunately, capturing skaters is incredibly difficult even with top of the range equipment. There is no point and shoot camera on the market capable of doing that.
What I recommend is buying a good bridge camera, and focus on taking pictures when the skaters are static. Those images can be the most beautiful

 

[Reuven]

Milly's right. A good bridge camera like the Nikon P610 would give you the reach and the flexibility of control. The other thing I like is that it has a view finder, and here's why: Because you have to hold the camera up to your eye, you can brace it against your face. It's a much steadier method than trying to hold a camera at arm's length whilst looking at the back display, even with shake control on. Mrs.Reuven has the P510 predecessor and it's a lovely camera.

 

[Vash01]

Hi Claire,
Unfortunately, capturing skaters is incredibly difficult even with top of the range equipment. There is no point and shoot camera on the market capable of doing that.
What I recommend is buying a good bridge camera, and focus on taking pictures when the skaters are static. Those images can be the most beautiful

Most of my skating pics were taken when the skaters were static. However, in the days of the film I was able to catch Gordeeva Grinkov pics while they were skating, and a few others. With the digital camera I only take pics when they end the program. I will have to try my new Nikon next time I go to a sporting event. Actually my Hockey photos usually come out good but figure skating pics are harder

 

[myhoneyhoney]

you took pics of G&G! I'm so jealous.

 

[Vash01]

I ended up buying Fuji XP80 waterproof camera at Costco for $200. I didn't really want to spend that much on the waterproof camera. However, after checking at several stores and not finding anything at all, I settled on this. Amazon.com had a XP75 for $150 but my trip is getting so close that I didn't want to risk not getting the camera in time. Besides the Costco camera came with a 16GB and carrying case. So the difference was not that big. Now I have to make this my #2 camera. I can use it if it's rainy or if my primary camera (Nikon) breaks down.

 

[Reuven]

Enjoy! Fuji makes a pretty good little camera.

 

[Vash01]

I am not happy with that Fuji right now. The instructions not easy. It mentions the waterproof seal but doesn't say whether to remove it. It's opaque with a picture of a kid in water. I don't see how I can take pictures with that cover on. OTOH I am afraid that if I remove that waterproof sticker, the camera may not remain waterproof.


Another thing is the instructions say to format the chip first. Why? I have never had to format a chip on any of my previous cameras. They just worked, and I didn't even have to read the instructions in detail.


I am already regretting buying this camera. After I go back home, I may just return it. Fuji says I should check their website instead and not return it. Thus camera is a major headache, and I feel like I wasted 216 dollars on it.

 

[Jay42]

It's better to format the card because it gets rid of any junk data on the card that could cause the card to corrupt or fail. It's especially important if you delete pictures off the card in-camera. When the picture is deleted it still leaves traces of the old picture behind. Some people have never had a problem and others have had nothing but problems so that is probably why the instructions say that.

As to other issues I'm not sure, I have never seen a waterproof sticker on our XP80s only the sticker they put on the back of LCD screen. I am sorry you don't like the camera.

 

[Reuven]

I always format the card rather than erase a bunch of images. It's not complicated. It should be in the menu somewhere, and in the manual. Alas, if it were a Nikon I could tell you more.

 

[JasperBoy]

I learned the hard to way always format the card using the menu. I was in the habit of deleting pictures after downloading them, using the computer. My memory card became corrupted. I lost a lot of pictures and had to replace the card. $$$$

 

[madm]

My hubby has taken fabulous photos at our annual ice show, which is quite professional with show lighting and sets. He is an advanced amateur and uses a Canon 5D camera with an L-series lens (about $3000 cost for both). He really understands photography, since he is from the old school where you used to have to set everything manually. His camera allows him to shoot several frames in a row and to shoot in very low light. His lens has image stabilization and autofocus controls. My Canon G15 point-and-shoot can't do that. I've tried and my photos come out blurry and too dark.

Instead, I shoot show and competition videos with my old Sony camcorder, and they come out perfect every time, even in extremely dark conditions. If you don't have the money or skill to use a professional digital camera (like the ones the pros use at sporting events, you know, with the big white lenses on monopods), try filming with a camcorder. Use a tripod or support your camera on a railing to avoid having the picture look jerky. Before shooting an event, adjust the exposure setting to correct for the extreme white (or other lighting) reflected off the ice.

My hubby shot great photos at Nationals for many years, and was often mistaken for a professional photographer because of his big white lens. In recent years he's been restricted to using a 200mm or less lens, and they checked his camera at security every time to make sure he adhered to the rules for spectators. Even with the shorter lens than the pros use, he was able to get great photos from the front row during events that were sparsely attended. The docents sometimes let him sit in the pro photographer area if there was no one there. At Nationals the ice is well lit, which makes it easier to stop action with most digital cameras.

If you like to edit photos with a software program like Photoshop, always shoot in RAW mode so that you have all the photographic data available to edit. It's possible to correct a lot of problems with lighting etc. via software.

Here are some good general tips for shooting sports photos indoors: http://digital-photography-school.com/indoor-sports-photography/. You may want to get a camera and lens with even faster shutter speeds, higher ISO settings, and lower aperature settings if you are shooting in a dark setting with show lighting.

 

[BigB08822]

You people are reading my mind lately! I was thinking about starting a thread asking about different cameras. We have gotten into cruising and I want to take better pictures than just what I get with my phone. I know nothing about cameras, though. Looking forward to reading through this thread and seeing what all you have to say.

 

[Jay42]

Are you thinking more compact size or do you want to be able to switch lenses BigB0822?

 

[Reuven]

@BigB08822, Sometimes a good place to start is a "bridge" camera, that is, it looks like a DSLR but has a zoom-able lens. They are called "bridge" because they are half-way between a compact point-and-shoot, and a DSLR with removable lenses. This type of camera will also allow you to shoot fully automatic, but as you learn, you can take more control of the process. The lens, whilst fixed, can zoom from wide angle to zoom, and some have a super zoom. The only thing I would recommend is one with a view finder. You see, holding a camera at arm's length, trying to use the monitor on the back, introduces camera shake that even the anti-shake may not be able to deal with. Using a view finder allows you to hold your arms close to your body and brace the camera against your face which gives you a more stable platform. I'm partial to Nikon, but Canon, Fuji, Sony all make damn good products.

 

[millyskate]

@BigB08822, . I'm partial to Nikon, but Canon, Fuji, Sony all make damn good products.

Not to forget, Panasonic is a frontrunner on the bridge market also. In the past I've really liked their cameras.

 

[madm]

When we went to South Africa 5 years ago, my hubby didn't want to lug his bulky Canon 5D, lenses, tripod, etc. around on the trip, so instead he brought our Canon Powershot G9. It took fabulous pictures!!! We have 11x14" enlargements of some of the photos framed throughout our house, and they don't look grainy at all. Of course, they were RAW images that were "improved" in Photoshop. Given that we were on a safari with unpredictable animals coming and going around us, having a camera that shot on Program Mode was really convenient. Of course, we weren't able to get night-time photos with this camera, but the day-time ones are great. I highly recommend the Canon Powershot cameras (we've upgraded to the G15 since). It's my go-to camera for just about everything I do. It's relatively small size fits in my purse.