Advice needed on worn out boot finish

livetoskate

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I've had these wonderful custom Klingbeils for about 14 years. I've had breaks from skating so that's why they've lasted so long, but now the leather finish has worn down on parts of the tongue where the laces are tied against them. What should or can I do at this point? Put Sno Seal or some white shoe polish on those areas? Some small areas on the sides of my boots are also worn down to the point where you can see grey leather. My regular rink doesn't have a pro shop, so I'd have to order something online if it can't be purchased from a store like Target. Thanks for any advice!
 
Tape is a good temporary solution, but you'll want to repaint the boot for long-time preservation. Since you're wearing Klingbeils, they're leather uppers, which are easier to clean and repaint.

I really like the Angelus line of products—they're relatively inexpensive and can be picked up at most arts & craft retailers in the States.

1. Remove the laces, and clean the surface of your boot. I use a little bit of dishsoap and water with a cloth, sometimes a toothbrush if there's some scrubbing to be done. Wipe dry once you're finished. Wait about an hour.

2. Once the surface is dry, mask the sole of the boot with painter's tape. Use a leather preparer and deglazer (I use the Angelus one; I don't recommend acetone preparers on skates) to break down the old paint and glaze. This prevents the paint application from cracking and ensure you are actually painting on the leather, not just on top of old paint. If you have any deep nicks in your boots, this is the point where you will use a leather filler, then lightly sand so that paint will adhere to it.

3. Grab a good paintbrush, preferably one with softer bristles (this is a good set), and get to painting. It takes about 15-30 minutes for the paint to dry per layer. I typically do about 2 or 3, and let it dry for 2-3 hours afterwards.

4. Apply an acrylic finisher, which is a clear protective top coat and a good scuff protectant. Angelus offers them in a variety of finishes (I like satin). Let dry for another 2-3 hours. Waterproof with Sno-seal/etc.

As for care after painting, you can always keep the toes/etc taped up with skate tape during practice. A Magic eraser and shoe polish works great for touchups.
 
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I've had the opportunity to do some custom jobs, and here are a couple of changes to the process above.

1. Remove the laces, and clean the surface of your boot. I use a little bit of dishsoap and water with a cloth, sometimes a toothbrush if there's some scrubbing to be done. Wipe dry once you're finished. Wait about an hour.

2. Once the surface is dry, mask the sole of the boot with painter's tape. Use a leather preparer and deglazer (I use the Angelus one; I don't recommend acetone preparers on skates) to break down the old paint and glaze. This prevents the paint application from cracking and ensure you are actually painting on the leather, not just on top of old paint. Lightly sand to promote adhesion.

2a. If you have any deep nicks in your boots, this is the point where you will use a leather filler, then sand.

3. Grab a good paintbrush, preferably one with softer bristles (this is a good set), and get to painting. Apply in thin layers. The first one will look terrible. Don't panic. Applying thin layers is the key to making this look good. It takes about 15-30 minutes for the paint to dry per layer. I typically do about 3-4 and let it dry for 2-3 hours afterwards before moving on to the next step.

4. Now that you've painted the skates, time to apply a protective layer that will keep them waterproof and minimize scuffing. Apply 2-3 layers of an acrylic finisher; I also use it on the soles of my skates as waterproofing. Angelus offers them in a variety of finishes (the standard and semi gloss are nice).

5. Minimum dry time is 48 hours. You have to let the paint and finishers fully cure to prevent cracking/flaking. You may feel like the surface is slightly tacky after drying, you can apply a very thin layer of snow seal or wax to polish.

Some additional notes/observations:
  • Lower-end Jackson boots are not leather. I believe they are microfiber. You may need to add an acrylic medium to the paint in order for it to work, but I'm not 100% on this.
  • If you plan on painting on the lining, you'll definitely need a flow medium.
  • I like to use a box with a slit cut in it to paint my skates without touching. After the initial 3-4 layers, I remove it and flip it into a can of soup (really), to do detailing around the sole, get the tongue painted nicely, and other parts I may have missed. Flipping it upside down really helps.
  • My main brush is the #10 shader. It's nice and flat, doesn't streak. Treat your paintbrushes well.
  • If you plan on dyeing laces to match the boot, I highly recommend Rit's color formula chart. If you don't know the fabric content of your laces, using the synthetic dyes is a good choice.
 
You could also try to get through to Avanta. Will, who worked under Don and was trained by Don (RIP) is one of the boot makers there. You could try and get in touch with him for his advice. He may be able to make you new tongues.
"At Avanta, our boots are made one at a time by our master boot maker, Will Murillo. This process is long, tedious, and you need a serious eye for perfection"
Here's their facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/AvantaBootLabs/
 
You could also try to get through to Avanta. Will, who worked under Don and was trained by Don (RIP) is one of the boot makers there. You could try and get in touch with him for his advice. He may be able to make you new tongues.
"At Avanta, our boots are made one at a time by our master boot maker, Will Murillo. This process is long, tedious, and you need a serious eye for perfection"
Here's their facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/AvantaBootLabs/

Hmm. Isn't this the company that posted completely unprofessional attacks on Karen Chen on their public instagram/social media pages, came and posted on this board under both their own name and a variety of pseudonyms, tried to convince us all they were great and that the posts would be taken down, but the posts are still there?

Yeah...wouldn't touch this joint with a ten foot pole.
 
Hmm. Isn't this the company that posted completely unprofessional attacks on Karen Chen on their public instagram/social media pages, came and posted on this board under both their own name and a variety of pseudonyms, tried to convince us all they were great and that the posts would be taken down, but the posts are still there?

Avanta or not, I want to point out that you don't have to bring your skates to a boot company for this kind of work. Any reputable shoe repair/cobbler should be able to handle a paint job—it's very much in their wheelhouse.
 
Not a commercial for Avanta, but 4 years ago, when I talked to Don Klingbeil at Liberty, he said that Avanta would repair Klingbeils. The price I was quoted for new tongues (including shipping) was $200, much more than Klingbeil used to charge. But I think Harlick would also be able to do the work, and I've heard their tongue replacement is cheaper, if you decide to go that route.
 
DebbieS, thanks so much for letting me know about the tongue replacement that Avanta does. I was a bit hesitant after that Karen Chen scandal but since I have Klingbeils, I figured this was the way to go. They charged me only $200 and got the work completed in a matter of days. The new tongues feel and look great. Now my skates will last even more years. I had no idea this was even possible. I appreciate the information!
 

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