Paris Travel Advice

[DannyCurry]

I might be the only person who does not care for L'éclair de génie. The salted caramel one I tried was just meh, and the dark chocolate was lacking in flavor. Both seemed kind of artificially flavored, though that's probably not the case. But I'd rather get my sweet fix elsewhere (manhn already has a list from me).

The Merveilleux I tried were very sweet.

I don't think any address would be unanimously praised so I'm sure you're not the only one who doesn't care for L'éclair de génie. For sure, other would agree with you. I don't care for Magnolia's cupcake, some others don't care for Pierre Hermé's macaroons. To each their own and that's fine. I'd be curious though to try an éclair, especially the salted caramel one, that doesn't seem artificially flavored to you, so please share ^^

And I won't argue about the Merveilleux being "very sweet". I agree, but Fred's hit the right balance IMO. I have yet to taste better Merveilleux than his, but I'd happily try any other that one might recommend. I'm a food lover so I like trying out new things or different places, even for desserts I don't like (cheesecake for instance).

Sadaharu Aoki is probably the one place in Paris I have encountered extremely rude service (and I've been to Paris 13+ times).

That's bad luck ! Well, actually you're quite lucky, because quality of service is often lacking in Paris so one time out of 13+ is good, but it's unfortunate that that one time was at Sadaharu Aoki. What did the staff do to be "extremely rude" ?

I've never faced extremely rude staff there (or similar shops) but in restaurants, I've seen some pretty awful waiters, for instance at Le Bambou (btw Vietnamese restaurant in the 13th arrondissement). However, the good thing at Le Bambou is that you hardly wait to get your plates once you've ordered. Another suggestion for Vietnamese would be Phô 14. I love Vietnamese food but I don't like Phô and though I wouldn't queue to get in Phô 14, most people like it. Apart from a Vietnamese, I would suggest Cambodian restaurant Mondol Kiri. Again, most people (including me), like it, but my mom for instance, finds it overrated.

ETA : And if Asian won't do, just go to La Butte aux Cailles (also in the 13th) and try "Le temps des Cerises" or "Chez Gladines" for French (but not high-end) cuisine

 

[Sylvia]

Sorry to piggyback on manhn's thread, but since I will be in Paris later this week:

Any recommendations for vegetarian food?

I still remember an amazing meal I had at an Ethiopian restaurant near the Arc de Triomphe decades ago. If you like Ethiopian (vegetarian) food, I'm sure you could find a good restaurant in Paris. Enjoy your trip, @gkelly! And @manhn, too!

 

[MsZem]

I don't think any address would be unanimously praised so I'm sure you're not the only one who doesn't care for L'éclair de génie. For sure, other would agree with you. I don't care for Magnolia's cupcake, some others don't care for Pierre Hermé's macaroons. To each their own and that's fine. I'd be curious though to try an éclair, especially the salted caramel one, that doesn't seem artificially flavored to you, so please share ^^

After my failure with the eclairs, I focused on other desserts

 

[briancoogaert]

1. Best Coffee in Paris: A very important question for me. Any and all suggestions will likely be tried out.

2. Best Croissant in Paris:

3. Best Baguette in Paris:

4. Best Cheese in Paris:

5. Best Macaroon in Paris:

6. Best Hot Chocolate in Paris:

The best is impossible to find, it's just a matter of taste, but try and you'll see : the probability to find something good is high !
But be very careful or tourists zone (7th arrondissement for example and Quartier Latin).
Try in the 3rd or 4th arrondissements.

9. I am staying in Rue Cler in the 7th arrondissement. Any special places to check out?

You are near the Seine, and Les Invalides (museum of Army, and the Tomb of Napoleon)
And near this place, the very nice Rodin's Museum.

14. Best Place to Observe Hipsters:

Le Marais ! Place des Vosges... Rue des Francs-Bourgeois.
Also a nice area to find best restaurants, croissants, café and so on...

15. Best bookstore in Paris:

Gibert Joseph, Boulevard Saint Michel
And an english bookstore near the Opera Garnier : Brentano's rue de l'Opéra

16. Best Vietnamese in Paris:

Rue Saint-Anne or Rue Borda, near Arts et métiers Museum.

Enjoy

 

[Vagabond]

Rue des Francs-Bourgeois.

Street of the Outspoken Middle Classes.

Not so far away from the equally aptly named Street of the Bad Boys.

 

[acraven]

For the Navigo Decouverte it is my understanding that you can photocopy your passport photo (or a driver's license photo), reduce the size if necessary, and use that. Black and white is OK. I believe you normally pay for the pass at a vending machine and then take the receipt to a human being at a window, who will hand you the kit. You put it together yourself. However, I guess that procedure may vary, depending on where you are buying the pass.

I read what seemed a good suggestion on the Rick Steves travel board: When looking for good restaurants or other food sources in France, go to Trip Advisor and examine the ratings left by French reviewers. If you can read French, La Fourchette is another recommended information source.

Unasked-for-advice alert (and second-hand info at that):

Versailles is closed on Monday. The Louvre is closed on Tuesday. Want to guess how busy Versailles is on Tuesday? I imagine that Saturday and Sunday are also a bit worse than Wednesday and Thursday.

The conventional wisdom on the RS board is that some sort of strategic approach is necessary to enjoy Versailles these days, because it is monumentally crowded, and you will be there during the spring-break period.

The King's Apartments tour is moderately priced and gets good reviews, and you get to see that part of the palace without crowds. Furthermore, there seems to be a separate security line for people with those tour tickets, which would make the tour sort of a no-brainer. I don't know whether the KA tours are already sold out for the time of your visit, however.

If you don't want to do the King's Apartments tour, advice is to get there 45 to 60 minutes before the palace opens so you're reasonably near the front of what will grow into a really long security line. This may avoid an incredibly long wait and will get you into the palace before it is totally mobbed. (Is the King's Apartments tour sounding better at this point?)

The Hamlet is about a 40-minute walk from the main palace. I'm unclear on what there is to see along the way, but folks seem to find the Hamlet interesting. There are bikes available for rent as well as some sort of golf-cart things. There is supposedly a way to reserve the carts. I don't know whether the demand for bicycles is such that they also need to be reserved.

The gardens are free on days when the fountains are not operating. They don't operate all day long, just for 90 minutes or so in the morning and again in the afternoon. That info is probably on the Versailles website.

 

[Vagabond]

@manhn

To Prove My Point

Rue Cler

You could easily do all of your food shopping along this market road. Bring your wicker basket and pile it high with brioche from Pralus, cheese from La Fermette Fromagerie, honey from Famille Mary, roasted chicken from Darius Rotisserie, fresh fruit and vegetables from the market and ice cream from Martine Lambert and you’ll return with a household full of French delicacies. This is where chic Parisians come for local produce. After all that shopping, stop for a well-earned alcoholic beverage at the charming bar l’Éclair.

Q.E.D.

 

[manhn]

That is why I chose Rue Cler! My hotel is right next door the cutest frommagerie!

 

[MsZem]

For the Navigo Decouverte it is my understanding that you can photocopy your passport photo (or a driver's license photo), reduce the size if necessary, and use that. Black and white is OK. I believe you normally pay for the pass at a vending machine and then take the receipt to a human being at a window, who will hand you the kit. You put it together yourself. However, I guess that procedure may vary, depending on where you are buying the pass.

Just ask the service rep for help. I'd recommend doing so at a less busy station.

I read what seemed a good suggestion on the Rick Steves travel board: When looking for good restaurants or other food sources in France, go to Trip Advisor and examine the ratings left by French reviewers. If you can read French, La Fourchette is another recommended information source.

La Fourchette is good for deals.

It's often a good idea to go where the locals are. OTOH, the locals are often at Starbucks or their neighborhood place. Recommendations from people similar to the reader can be more effective. Or asking individuals, like us FSUers

The conventional wisdom on the RS board is that some sort of strategic approach is necessary to enjoy Versailles these days, because it is monumentally crowded, and you will be there during the spring-break period.
...

If you don't want to do the King's Apartments tour, advice is to get there 45 to 60 minutes before the palace opens so you're reasonably near the front of what will grow into a really long security line. This may avoid an incredibly long wait and will get you into the palace before it is totally mobbed.

It won't be spring break in the Paris area during manhn's visit, and spring break elsewhere in France doesn't start until near the end of the planned visit. But of course many of the visitors are not local.

I was in Versailles on a Tuesday in June. Having gotten there around the time it opened, I waited in line for something like half an hour, and it was about as crowded as any major tourist attraction (and not at all outside the palace). You do not need to be strategic about Versailles The Louvre might be best enjoyed if you figure out what you want to do ahead of time.

Entry to the gardens does indeed require payment (and queuing, though I think in a different line) when they have the musical fountains show. Or at least it did last year.

 

[alj5]

I don't have any specific advice other than just try things. Look in shops and sniff around and look for something that appeals to you and isn't overrun with tourists. Wander and get a little lost.

 

[Japanfan]

I happen to enjoy trekking across towns to find mystical great baked goods. Not sure why you're judging. I could have written the word "favourite" instead. Any places that posters enjoy, even if they are not judged the "best".

Vagabond said 'mythical baked goods' in her post - referring to reputuation - while you said mystical.

I'd like some mystical baked goods myself! But perhaps you have had a bit too much of them?

 

[Vagabond]

Vagabond said 'mythical baked goods' in her post

I'm a dude.

I don't have any specific advice other than just try things. Look in shops and sniff around and look for something that appeals to you and isn't overrun with tourists. Wander and get a little lost.

Speaking as a vagabond , I must say that you really can't find anything at all unless you wander and get lost.

 

[Hindernisse]

9. I am staying in Rue Cler in the 7th arrondissement. Any special places to check out?

Fab choice. I always stay in the 7th arrondissement whenever I go to Paris. It is very well connected, but not too touristic. And the area is full of nice restaurants. I particularly recommend Cafe Constant, Pottoka and Les Cocottes.

Re Brussels, it is a 1h20min comfortable train ride away, but unless you are a big fan of art nouveau, are you sure you want to go to the "hellhole"? In any case, I happy to provide any recommendations on the self-proclaimed capital of Europe

 

[Rob]

I was there once at Easter, and the chocolatiers had the cutest Easter chocolates (bunnies, chicks, etc.). Works of art really.

 

[MsZem]

I was there once at Easter, and the chocolatiers had the cutest Easter chocolates (bunnies, chicks, etc.). Works of art really.

I still have my Lindt chocolate bunny, and I put a little knit cap on its ears.

Yann Couvreur makes chocolate foxes for the holiday. Aren't they cute?

 

[skategal]

Leonidas has ducks. Soooo cute!

My husband just got back from Belgium with some for our son (and lots of other stuff too. Yippee!)

 

[manhn]

Well, I am back from Paris! It was an amazing trip. Love Paris. Thanks so much for everyone's input (especially Zemgirl). In case you are planning a trip to Paris and know how to use the Search function...

1. Best Coffee in Paris:

TBH, it is tough to find a decent coffeeshop in Paris. They don't hit you in the face like in other major cities, you really have to seek them out.

1. Spoune in Marlais.
2. Blackburn Coffee in Strasbourg-St Denis/Bonne Nouvelle
3. ONI in Strasbourg-St Denis/Bonne Nouvelle
4. 10 Belles in St. Martin Canal
5. Telescope in Palais Royal/Musée du Louvre
6. Matamata in Palais Royal/Musée du Louvre
7. Bleu Olive in Invalides
8. Malongo in Odeon
9. Shakespeare & Company Cafe in the Left Bank
10. Le Peloton in Marais
11. Terres de Cafe in Eiffel Tower

2. Best Croissant in Paris:

1. Du Pain et des Idees in Canal St. Martin
2. Aux Désirs de Manon in Marais.
3. Secco Artisan Boulangerie in Grenelle
4. Eric Kayser in The Latin Quarter
5. Boulangerie Colin Régis in Les Halles.
6. Boulangerie Nelly Julien in Grenelle

3. Best Baguette in Paris:

1. Le fournil d'Ornano in Porte de Saint-Ouen.
2. Bio Artisan Boulangerie in Invalides.
3. Gosselin in Saint-Germain
4. Les Gourmandises D'Eiffel in Tour Eiffel.
5. Boulangerie Julien in Les Halles.
6. Aux Délices De Mimi in Invalides.

4. Best Cheese in Paris:

Comte!

5. Best Macaroon in Paris:

1. Jean Pierre Hevin
2. Pierre Herme
3. Laduree - bleh

6. Best Hot Chocolate in Paris:

Angelina! Angelina! Angelina!

7. We will be there during Easter. Any special events we should look out for?

Notre Dame was a zoo.

8. Best places to run?

The Seine is really nice, and just crossing all the bridges is great too. But I adore just running along all of the side streets and passage ways in the early mornings. My runs always ended up being longer than intended due to me getting lost.

9. I am staying in Rue Cler in the 7th arrondissement. Any special places to check out?

It was an ideal place for me and my folks. Close to the Metro, alot of cute shops. No big shopping outlets, but that is okay.

10. My mom wants the best French onion soup.

I guess she lied to me. She never order onion soup once!

11. Best pate and fois gras.

Josselein in the 7th. Yum!

12. I will be running the Paris Marathon. The Expo is located at the Porte de Versailles metro stop. Anything else of interest there?

Nope.

13. The two operas occurring in the Palais Garnier are Benvenutu Cellini and Le Chateaux de Barbe-Bleue / La Voix Humaine. I know nothing about opera. Which one should I attend? Also, a nice eatery to visit after the opera.

No opera. I went to the ballet instead at the Bastille Opera. It was a production of Romeo & Juliet. Music by Hector Berlioz. Choreo by Sasha Waltz. A lovely night

14. Best Place to Observe Hipsters:

Republique!

15. Best bookstore in Paris:

Shakespeare & Co. is an obvious choice, but oh well. I also enjoyed all the bookstores in the Luxumberg area.

16. Best Vietnamese in Paris:

Pho Bom in Chinatown was AMAZING.

I will think of more that was not specifically mentioned in my list, but Paris is great! Also, if you want to do a marathon, Paris would be a great place to do it.

 

[Vagabond]

I guess she lied to me. She never order onion soup once!

Parents can be exasperating at times, but you've got to love them. They're just so cute!

 

[manhn]

Also, due to the train strikes in France, I didn't do any daytrips. I didn't want to deal with the hassle. But there was plenty enough to do in Paris. I still missed out on a ton of stuff.